A. Here are a few tips: Determine a Starting Point

First measure and mark the center point of the two opposite walls in the working area. The center line can be marked by snapping a chalk line stretched between these two points.

Duplicate the procedure for the other two walls. Use a carpenter square to verify that the two lines have intersected at a 90 degree angle (make adjustments if necessary). For rooms of irregular shape, simply select the most dominant area and make your marks.

Begin laying loose tile along the center lines allowing adequate spaces for grout. If a space of less than half a tile remains between the last tile and the wall, move the center line one half closer to the opposite wall. Duplicate this procedure along the other line. Now you plan where to begin the installation. Move the starting line adjacent to the wall from which you wish to start the installation.

Setting Your Tiles

Ensure that the subfloor is structurally sound and free of dust, paint, oil, grease and any other substance that may prevent or reduce the adhesion of the mortar. Choose a slate that is calibrated or "gauged". Gauged slate has natural cleft on one side and "grooves" on the other. The pieces come boxed and are the same thickness. It's very similar to laying a ceramic floor. Un-calibrated slate (slate with natural cleft on both sides and the pieces can vary in thickness) is very difficult and time consuming to install, even for the most experienced installer.

Carefully clean off the surface of each tile with water and a brush or a wet sponge to remove dust.

Apply the mortar to the concrete subfloor with the flat side of the trowel and then comb the mortar with the notched side of the trowel leaving ridges.

Work in small sections at one time.

Prior to setting the tiles, apply mortar to the entire back of each tile.

Firmly place the tile in position with a twisting motion so that 100% of the back of the tile has contact with the mortar on the floor.

Do not disturb the tile work for 48 hours.

Sealing and Grouting

Using clean water, thoroughly scrub and clean the area to remove any remaining loose material or dirt from the stone surface. Take care not to disturb the bond of the tile to the mortar. Use kneeling boards if necessary. Allow the cleaned tile to dry.

Apply a generous coat of the sealant and let dry for 24 hours before grouting.

Grout floor

Apply second and final coat of sealant and let dry for 24 hours.

A. Granite is the next hardest material to a diamond. There are some granites that are more porous than others however, all of our granite countertops are sealed during the fabrication process and again upon installation. The rule of thumb is that when the water no longer beads up, it's time to re-seal. For some folks that's two years, for some it's 4-5. It depends upon usage.

A. We think that rumor was started by the "solid surface" manufacturers. Granite does not generate or "breed" any more or any less bacteria than your average countertop surface.

A. Regular maintenance of your tops is easy, just use mild soap and water. When properly maintained, your granite tops will last a lifetime.

A. First of all, we try to give you the least number of seams possible. This varies depending on the size of the slabs and your particular counter top or island design. Seams are approximately 1/16" in width. They are done with epoxy and mixed with stone dust along with a color pigment to match your stone.

A. No. There is a wide range of colors to choose from to match any decor and compliment any cabinetry. You can find granites with green, blue, yellow, beige, taupe, mauve, pink, peach, gold, red, black, gray and brown.

A. The Instile™ display unit features 32 granite samples and our warehouse also has a wide variety of granites in stock. You can see actual slab material before it is cut into countertops. You may also want to visit a dealer showroom. They will help you find what you are looking for.

Simply sweep, vacuum or dry mop your slate floor to remove any surface dirt. When needed, wash with Slate Shampoo. Do not use abrasive cleaners or detergents.

As the life span of slate is virtually endless, not just the initial purchase price is competitive but unlike carpet, tiles or vinyl, slate will not need replacing for a long time.

Price relates to a number of variables like availability of a particular type of slate, accessibility to the slate mines, distance from the mines to the port of discharge etc.